วันอังคารที่ 21 กรกฎาคม พ.ศ. 2558

How to shoot your Pat’s



Trick for you : How to shoot your Pat’s

1. Start with Your Pet’s Personality
Before you starts photographing your pet ask yourself ‘what sets it apart from other animals?’ Think about what type of personality it has and then attempt to capture some of that in your shots. For example if everyone knows your pet as a sleepy, lazy or placid little thing set up your photo shoot around it’s bed or where it goes after a meal to lie in the sun and you’ll have every chance of capturing a shot that sums your pet right up. Alternatively if your pet is hyperactive, inquisitive and always on the move it might be better to do your shoot at a local park where it’s racing around, jumping for balls or playing with other animals.

2. Think about Context
In choosing the location to photograph your pet you might want to consider a variety of other factors also. For starters choose a place where your pet will be comfortable and at ease. Also consider the familiarity of the location and the emotions that it will evoke in you as the pets owner. For example you might have a place that you and your pet have had some special moments together that will mean a lot in the future as you look back over your shots. Lastly consider the background of your shots. Ultimately you don’t want your backgrounds to be distracting from your photo – sometimes the best locations are the plainest ones – a large patch of green grass, a well lit room with white walls and plain carpet etc can be ideal. Of course this can also be tool plain and sterile – my motto is that if the different elements in the background of the shot don’t add to it avoids them.

3. Get in Close
Pets come in all shapes and sizes but in most cases they are smaller than a human and as a result they tend to end up getting a little lost in photos unless you make an effort to get up close to them. Of course getting close is not always easy, especially if you have a pet that likes to move around, but it’s worth making the effort as the detail that can be gained and the personality that can be captured by an up close and personal photo shoot with a pet can really lift a photo to a new level. If you can’t physically get close to your pet get your camera equipped with a zoom lens. The added benefit of a long focal length is that it will help with isolating your pet in terms of depth of field (ie give you a nice blurry background so that your pet is center of attention with no distractions).

4. Get On Their Level
Get down on your pets level where you can look upon them eye to eye. Images taken by a photographer standing up and looking down on their level not only leave you too far away from your subject but they also mean the shots end up having a very ‘human perspective’. Getting down on your pets level means you enter their world and get a glimpse of what life looks like from their angle – you’ll be impressed by the results as they are more personal and have a real element of intimacy.

5. Mix Up Your Framing
Pets, like human subjects’ look different from different angles and framing them in a variety of ways can bring out different perspectives to your shots. In your photo shoot take some tightly cropped facial shots (even focusing right in on single features like eyes, noses, ears, whiskers etc) but also make sure you take three quarter body shots as well as full body shots. In this way you end up with a series of shots that give viewers of your photos a full perspective on who your pet is.




6. Lighting
Light makes any photograph what it is and when it comes to pets it’s especially important. In general I wouldn’t recommend using a flash as they tend to distract pets and in some cases will even frighten them. The other issue with flashes is that they can create spooky red-eye problems with some animals (in the same way they do with humans). Natural light is a much better option than using a flash and so where possible outside photo shoots tend to work best (or at least in a well lit window inside). The only exception I would give for using a flash is when your pet has very dark (or black) fur as it tends to absorb light and a flash can add detail. With dark fury pets you might want to slightly over expose your images for this same reason. Alternatively with white pets you run the risk of over exposing shots so try to find a location out of direct sunlight and definitely avoid a flash.

7. Include People
One of the best things you can do to add context to a shot is to include the special people in the life of your pet in the image. Shots with the owner or other family members interacting with your pet can make the images incredibly special for years to come. You might like to try posed shots but sometimes it’s the candid shots of owner and pet at play (or snoozing together in front of a fire) that really capture the character of the pet and evoke emotion.

8. Freeze the Action
Many pets present a challenge to photographers because they are active and always on the move. The key with any subject that’s on the move is to freeze their action by using a fast shutter speed. Most digital cameras these days will allow you to shoot in full manual mode if you feel confident to get the mix between shutter and aperture right – alternatively you can work in shutter priority mode where you set the shutter speed and the camera automatically does the rest by picking a good aperture to work with your shutter speed. The last alternative is to use ‘sports’ mode which will mean the camera will select the fastest shutter speed possible for your situation. Once you’ve got your shutter speed nice and fast make sure your camera is always at the ready so you can anticipate the actions of your pet. If they are a fast mover you might also want to consider shooting in continuous mode (burst mode) to take a quick series of shots in a row. This can also lead to a wonderful sequence of shots that work well together.

9. Be Playful
Pets can be playful little critters and rather than attempting to contain this to get them posed for that special shot it’s often very effective to go with their playfulness and make it a central feature of your image. Include their toys, stimulate them to look longingly into your camera by holding a special treat above your head or take a picture with them sitting on top of you mid wrestle etc. Make your photo shoot a fun experience for both you and your pet and your shots are likely to reflect it.

10. Catch them unawares
Posed shots can be fun and effective but one thing I love to do (whether it be with animals or people) is to photograph them candidly paparazzi style. I have very fond memories of stalking a friend’s dog as he played in a back yard one day. I took shots while he dug up flowers, as he buried a bone, as he fell chased a bee around and ask he sat contentedly with his head sticking out of his dog house. The whole time I photographed him he was barely aware of my presence so the shots were very natural without me distracting the dog from his ‘business’.

11. Try a Wide Angle Lens
One of the techniques I’ve experimented with lately is using a wider angle lens. This allows you to get in close (point 3) but also fit in a lot of the pet. The other benefit of it is that using a wider angle lens will often give your image a little distortion that will give your image a new creative and fun perspective. 

Credit From >>   digital-photography-school.com




วันอาทิตย์ที่ 5 กรกฎาคม พ.ศ. 2558

Ten Tips For Camera

Take Your Digital Photography to the Next Level!

Whether you are a beginner or more experienced with photography, there are some tips that will benefit you and give you better results. Here are some common issues that you may have to deal with and some tips on how you can use them to your advantage.

Compose in Thirds 
To use the rule of thirds, imagine four lines, two lying horizontally across the image and two vertical creating nine even squares. Some images will look best with the focal point in the center square, but placing the subject off center will often create a more aesthetically composed photograph. When a photograph is composed using the rule of thirds the eyes will wander the frame. A picture composed by the rule of thirds is more interesting and pleasing to the eye.

Avoid Camera Shake
Camera shake or blur is something that can plague any photographer and here are some ways to avoid it. First, you need to learn how to hold your camera properly; use both hands, one around the body and one around the lens and hold the camera close to your body for support. Also make sure you are using a shutter speed that matches the lens focal length. So if you’re using a 100mm lens, then your shutter speed should be no lower than 1/100th of a second. Use a tripod or monopod whenever possible. In lieu of this, use a tree or a wall to stabilize the camera.

The Sunny 16 Rule
The idea with the Sunny 16 rule is that we can use it to predict how to meter our camera on a sunny outdoor day. So when in that situation, choose an aperture of f/16 and 1/100th of a second shutter speed (provided you are using ISO 100). You should have a sharp image that is neither under or over exposed. This rule is useful if you don’t have a functioning light meter or if your camera doesn’t have an LCD screen to review the image.

Use a Polarizing Filter
If you can only buy one filter for your lens, make it a polarizer. This filter helps reduce reflections from water as well as metal and glass; it improves the colors of the sky and foliage, and it will protect your lens too. There’s no reason why you can’t leave it on for all of your photography. The recommended kind of polarizer is circular because these allow your camera to use TTL (through the lens) metering (i.e. Auto exposure).

Create a Sense of Depth
When photographing landscapes it really helps to create a sense of depth, in other words, make the viewer feel like they are there. Use a wide-angle lens for a panoramic view and a small aperture of f/16 or smaller to keep the foreground and background sharp. Placing an object or person in the foreground helps give a sense of scale and emphasizes how far away the distance is. Use a tripod if possible, as a small aperture usually requires a slower shutter speed.

Use Simple Backgrounds
The simple approach is usually the best in digital photography, and you have to decide what needs to be in the shot, while not including anything that is a distraction. If possible, choose a plain background – in other words, neutral colors and simple patterns. You want the eye to be drawn to the focal point of the image rather than a patch of color or an odd building in the background. This is vital in a shot where the model is placed off center.

Don't Use Flash Indoors
Flash can look harsh and unnatural especially for indoor portraits. Therefore, there are various ways you can take an image indoors without resorting to flash. First, push the ISO up – usually ISO 800 to 1600 will make a big difference for the shutter speed you can choose. Use the widest aperture possible – this way more light will reach the sensor and you will have a nice blurred background. Using a tripod or an I.S. (Image Stabilization) lens is also a great way to avoid blur.

Choose the Right ISO
The ISO setting determines how sensitive your camera is to light and also how fine the grain of your image. The ISO we choose depends on the situation – when it’s dark we need to push the ISO up to a higher number, say anything from 400 – 3200 as this will make the camera more sensitive to light and then we can avoid blurring. On sunny days we can choose ISO 100 or the Auto setting as we have more light to work with.

Pan to Create Motion
If you want to capture a subject in motion, then use the panning technique. To do this, choose a shutter speed around two steps lower than necessary – so for 1/250, we’d choose 1/60. Keep your camera on the subject with your finger half way down on the shutter to lock the focus and when ready, take the photo, remembering to follow them as they move. Use a tripod or monopod if possible to avoid camera shake and get clear movement lines.

Experiment with Shutter Speed
Don’t be afraid to play with the shutter speed to create some interesting effects. When taking a night time shot, use a tripod and try shooting with the shutter speed set at 4 seconds. You will see that the movement of the object is captured along with some light trails. If you choose a faster shutter speed of say 1/250th of a second, the trails will not be as long or bright; instead you will freeze the action. This technique works well if you are using a tripod and if you are photographing a moving object.



วันอังคารที่ 30 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2558

How to shoot the better photos?


How do I take better photos?” 
That's the question on the mind of every photographer. Today we have the answer for you. It actually has a few special considerations. Follow us


40 Tips for shooting. 
1. Get in close
 “If your photographs aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” If you feel like your images aren’t ‘popping’, take a step or two closer to your subject. Fill the frame with your subject and see how much better your photo will look without so much wasted space. The closer you are to the subject, the better you can see their facial expressions too. 




2. Shoot every day
The best way to hone your skills is to practice. A lot. Shoot as much as you can – it doesn’t really matter what. Spend hours and hours behind your camera. As your technical skills improve over time, your ability to harness them to tell stories and should too. 
Don’t worry too much about shooting a certain way to begin with. Experiment. Your style will emerge in time. And it will be more authentic when it does.
3. See the light
Before you raise your camera, see where the light is coming from, and use it to your advantage. Whether it is natural light coming from the sun, or an artificial source like a lamp; how can you use it to make your photos better? How is the light interacting with the scene and the subject? Is it highlighting an area or casting interesting shadows? These are all things you can utilise to make an ordinary photo extraordinary. 


4. Ask permission
When photographing people, especially while in countries with different cultures and languages, it can be hard to communicate. In certain countries if you photograph someone you are not ‘supposed’ to photograph, it can get ugly and rough very quickly if you are not careful. So out of respect you should always ask permission. 

I have started shooting a series of school children in Pakistan. These are all posed portraits and they are looking down the lens. My guide helps me with the language and I limit myself to smiling, shaking hands, giving ‘hi-five’ and showing them the image on the back of my camera once it is done. You would be amazed how quickly people open up.
5. Use flash during the day
You might think that you should only use flash at night time or indoors, but that’s not the case at all. If it is an extremely bright day outside and the sun is creating harsh shadows on your subject, switch on your flash. By forcing extra light onto your subject, you will be able to fill in those ugly shadows and create an even exposure. 


6. ISO
There are questions to ask yourself when deciding what ISO to use: 


What time of day are you shooting? If you are shooting outside during the middle of the day you will need to use a lower ISO such as 100 or 200. If you are shooting at night time without a tripod you will have to increase the ISO to a higher number to be able to record the light on the camera’s sensor.


Will the subject be well lit? If your subject or scene is too dark you will need to use a higher ISO such as 800 or 1600. 


Do you want a sharp image or an image with more movement in it? Using a high shutter speed to capture fast movement might mean that you need to use a high ISO to compensate. Likewise, if you’re using a slow shutter speed to capture blur you will need a low ISO to compensate. 


Don’t forget, increasing your ISO increases the grain or pixel size in your photo. So don’t use an ISO of 3200 or 6400 if you don’t want a photo with a lot of ‘digital noise’.
7. Wonders aperture (f/4)
f/4 is my ‘go to’ aperture. If you use a wide aperture with a long lens (200mm-400mm) you’re able to separate the subject from the background. This helps them stand out. Works every time.
8. You’ve got to be joking
A well timed joke will always yield a more natural smile, than simply saying “smile”
9. Find books to read
Having expensive camera equipment doesn’t always mean that you’ll take good photos. I’ve seen some absolutely amazing images shot with nothing more than a smart phone. Instead of having ten different lenses, invest in some fantastic photography books. By looking at the work of the masters, not only do you get inspired, you come away with ideas to improve your own photos.
10. Read your camera’s manual
The best way to know what to do with your camera is to actually read the manual. So many people miss this really important step on their photographic journey. Every camera is different, so by reading the manual you’ll get to know all the funky things it’s capable of. 


11. Slow down
Take time to think about what is going on in the viewfinder before pressing the shutter. How are you going to compose the shot? How are you going to light it? Don’t jump straight in without giving it some thought first.
12. Stop chimping (checking the photo on the back screen)
It’s a bad habit digital photographers can develop. Time and time again I see photographers take a photograph and then look at the back of the screen straight away. By doing that you could miss all the special moments. You can look at your photos later. You can miss ‘the shot’ and it affects the flow of your work, so just keep shooting!
13. Framing
This is a technique to use when you want to draw attention to something in your photograph. By framing a scene or a subject, say with a window or an archway, you lead the viewer’s eye to the primary focal point.
14. Shape with light
Never shoot with the sun directly behind you. It creates boring, flat light on the subject. If you shoot with the light source to the side or behind the subject, you are able to shape with the light, creating a more interesting photo
15. Watermarks
This tip isn’t in direct relation to TAKING photos, but it does affect the look of photos. When it comes to watermarks, the smaller the better. And if you can avoid using them, do.
Chances are, unless you are a paid professional, there’s not much of a chance of your photos getting nicked. But in reality, they won’t prevent your images from getting stolen. They only distract from the fabulous image that you’ve created, because once you’ve slapped a watermark all over it, that’s all the viewer will be looking at. The only way you can prevent your images from being stolen is to not publish them on the internet. 


Read Open producer Luke Wong’s blog post on watermarks here.
16. Be present
This means make eye-contact, engage and listen to your subject. With the eyes – lower that camera and be human. Bring the camera up for a decisive shot. But remember to lower it, like you’re coming up for air, to check in with your subject. Don’t treat them like a science experiment under a microscope. Being there with your subject shows them respect, levels the playing field in terms of power dynamics, and calms them down. You’ll get much more natural images this way.
17. Shutter speed
Being aware of your shutter speed means the difference between taking a blurry photo and a sharp photo. It all depends on what you are after. If you are shooting a sporting event or children running around in the backyard, you probably want your subjects to be in focus. To capture fast action you will have to use a shutter speed over 1/500th of a second, if not 1/1000th to 1/2000th. On the opposite end of the scale, you might want to capture the long streaks of a car’s tail lights running through your shot. Therefore you would change your camera’s shutter speed to a long exposure. This could be one second, ten seconds, or even longer. 


18. Charge your batteries
This seems like a simple one, but pretty much every photographer on the face of the planet has been caught out before. Including myself. The trick is to put the battery onto the charger as soon as you get home from your photo shoot. The only thing then is to make sure you remember to put it back into the camera after it has been recharged… 


19. Focal length
Keep it simple. I shoot with two prime lenses and one camera; A 28mm and a 35mm. For everything. I use the 35mm lens 70% and the 28mm lens 30% of time. It takes some time to get used to it, but once you work it out, shooting primes is the only way to go. It means you have to work with what you have and you can’t be lazy. Basically, this means more pictures and less fiddling around with zooming and maybe missing moments. It also helps for consistency. If you’re working on a project or a series, keeping the same focal lengths is a great way to maintain a powerful sense of consistency.
20. Be part of a photographic community
Like ABC Open! Not only will you be able to publish your photos for the rest of the country to see, you’ll be part of an active group that offers feedback on how great you are going. You can learn new things to help you improve your technique, and you might even make some new photography buddies.
21. Shoot with your mind
Even when you’re not shooting, shoot with your mind. Practice noticing expressions and light conditions. Work out how you’d compose a picture of that scene over there that interests you, and what sort of exposure you might use to capture it best.
22. Return the favor
Always remember that if you are shooting people in a different country, they are probably doing you a favor by posing. So the least you can do is return this favor some way or another.
I often return to the same places year after year, so I bring along prints and look for the people I photographed previously. In some areas people do not have a picture of themselves. Imagine not having a picture of you and your family? Strange don’t you think? Yet many people don’t. So a $0.50 print can really make someone happy. It also opens doors for more photography further down the track. 


23. Have a camera on you at all times
You can’t take great photos if you don’t have a camera on you, can you? DSLR, point-and-shoot or smart phone, it doesn’t really matter. As long as you have access to a camera, you’re able to capture those spontaneous and unique moments in life that you might have otherwise missed. 


24. The golden hour
Shoot portraits and landscapes in the golden hours — the light is softer and the colors are more vibrant
25. Keep it simple
Don’t try to pack too many elements into your image; it will just end up looking messy. If you just include one or two points of interest, your audience won’t be confused at where they should be looking or what they should be looking at. 

26. Don’t get bogged down by equipment
We’ve all seen these types of photographers out and about. They usually have three or four different cameras strapped around their necks with lenses long enough for an African safari. In reality, there’s probably no need for all that equipment. One body with one or two lenses means that you’ll be freer in your movements to capture interesting angles or subjects on the move. 

27. Perspective
Minimize the belly-button photograph. This is a reference to Moholy Nagy of the Bauhaus movement in photography (which was all about lines of perspective). In other words, perspectives are more engaging when we crouch down, or lie down, or elevate our position in reference to the subject. Look at how changing your perspective can change the visual language and implied power dynamics of the image. Crouching low can make your subject more dynamic, whereas gaining height on your subject can often minimize their presence in the image. One of my favorite exercises is to make my students lie down and take pictures, often in the dirt. I am a little cheeky. 

28. Be aware of backgrounds
What’s in your frame? So often I see great photos and think “didn’t they see that garbage bin, ugly wall, sign, etc?” It’s not just the person or object in your frame, it’s everything else in the background that can make or break a great photograph. So don’t be afraid to ask the person to move (or move yourself) to avoid something ugly in the background.
29. Shade
Shade can be your best friend. If there is no way you can make the available light work for your photo, shoot in the shade. You’ll get a nice even exposure with no patchy highlights throughout your shot.
30. Rule of Thirds
This is one of the most common tips that pop up when it comes to improving your photos.
To break it down, you cut your frame into thirds by using both horizontal and vertical lines. You then place your point of interest over the cross sections of the grid.
Check out this article for further details about using the rule of thirds.
31. Exposure
I’ve been shooting a lot of protests lately. Basically, they’re just a lot of people really close to one another; often moving. After having made many mistakes with getting my exposures right, I worked out that if the sun is behind me and in the face of protestors I will set exposure compensation to underexpose by a stop to bring out even tonal range. When the sun is behind the protestors I like to over expose just slightly to bring out the shadow details on their faces. This could apply to street photography when the light is in front or behind your subject.
32. Don’t spend too much time post-processing
The key is to get it right in the camera first, so you don’t HAVE to spend time editing. Over working a photo in editing software very rarely looks good, unless you are trying to achieve a super-artsy effect. If it takes you longer than ten minutes to alter your photo, maybe think about going back out into the field to re-shoot it. 


33. Variation
Variation is key. I often use a recipe from Life Magazine picture editors for building a story narrative. I look for: over-all shots or scene-setters, interaction, action, portraits, details, medium shots and of course the signature image. Having this list in my head helps me start photographing a story that sometimes isn’t visually apparent until you get into it. This is great when you’re in a crowded or busy place.
34. Become one with the camera
Push the button regardless of the outcome so the camera becomes part of your hand.
35. Hold your camera properly
You might not know it, but there is a right way and a wrong way to hold a DSLR camera. The correct way is to support the lens by cupping your hand underneath it. This is usually done with the left hand, with your right hand gripping the body of the camera. This helps to prevent camera shake. If you are gripping your camera with your hands on either side of the camera body, there is nothing supporting the lens, and you might end up with blurry photos. To get an even stables stance, tuck your elbows into the side of your body.
36. Limit your palette
When photos have too many colors spewing out from them, they’re often hard to look at. Unless it’s a photo of a rainbow or the Mardi Gras. Try to focus on having one or two colors predominately featuring in your photograph. It will be more pleasing to the eye and will help set the tone of the image. 


37. Get your subject to relax
This applies mostly to portrait style photography. As a press photographer, I spend most of my time doing one on one portrait shoots. I think it’s really beneficial to take the time (if you have it) talking to your subject, asking questions, showing an interest in whatever it is they do. I find it really helpful in relaxing the person and often they’ll say something and that can lead to a better photo opportunity.
38. Inspiration from all forms
Take in as much photography as you can – online, and in books and magazines. But not passively. Look at different styles. Work out what you like or don’t like about them. Look at the technical elements of pictures and think about how they were made, and what the photographer is trying to say. The more you take in, the more arsenal you’ll have when creating your own work.
39. Be patient and persevere
With time, patience, and perseverance, you will get better; with each and every photo you take.
40. Break the rules
Now that you know some of the rules, go ahead and break them! Experiment. Have fun. Learn from your mistakes. Make up your own tips and techniques for taking fantastic photographs. I’d love to hear them.

Go forth and shoot!
If you want a new camera >>Click<<

วันจันทร์ที่ 1 มิถุนายน พ.ศ. 2558

How to the portraits.

การถ่ายภาพบุคคลด้วยเทคนิคแบบบ้าน ๆ  
(How to the portraits.)

จับโฟกัสที่ดวงตา (Focus on the eyes)
         ด้วยคำที่ว่า “ดวงตานั้นเป็นหน้าต่างของหัวใจ” ดังนั้นหลักการสำคัญข้อแรกของการถ่ายภาพบุคคล คือการจับโฟกัสไปที่ดวงตา เนื่องจากเป็นสิ่งที่บ่งบอก และแสดงถึงอารมณ์ของภาพได้ดี ถ้าหากว่าเราไม่ได้โฟกัสที่ดวงตา และทำให้ตาไม่ชัดแล้วนั้น ตัวแบบที่เราถ่ายจะดูเหมือนคนสุขภาพไม่ดี ดูเหมือนคนป่วยทำให้ภาพขาดความน่าสนใจไปในทันที และเหตุที่สำคัญอีกประการหนึ่ง คือการถ่ายภาพบุคคลนั้นเรามักจะใช้รูรับแสงที่กว้าง ซึ่งจะทำให้มีระยะชัดลึกน้อย ถึงแม้ว่าเราจะทำการโฟกัสที่ใบหน้าแล้วก็ตามแต่ หลายครั้งเราอาจจะพบกรณีที่จมูกชัดแต่ดวงตาไม่ชัด หรือบางครั้งเป็นแก้ม หรือว่าใบหูชัดแต่ดวงตาไม่ชัดก็มี การโฟกัสที่ดวงตาให้ชัดนั้นบางครั้งบริเวณไหล่ หรือว่าใบหูไม่ชัด แต่ภาพที่ได้ก็ยังสามารถที่จะเป็นภาพที่ดีได้

อย่าวางขอบรูปให้ตัดบริเวณข้อต่อต่าง ๆ (Do not place the frame on the joints of the body.)
            การจัดองค์ประกอบภาพนั้นอย่าตัดกรอบภาพบริเวณข้อต่อ ซึ่งจะได้แก่ คอ ข้อศอก ข้อมือ เอว หัวเข่า ข้อเท้า เนื่องจากจะทำให้อารมณ์ของภาพนั้นดูไม่ดี คนที่ดูภาพจะมีความรู้สึกเหมือนกับว่าตัวแบบของเรานั้นแขน หรือขาขาด การตัดกรอบภาพบริเวณแขนขา หรือลำตัวนั้นทำได้เพียงแต่เราต้องพยายามไม่ตัดบริเวณที่เป็นข้อต่อเท่านั้นเอง ซึ่งจะทำให้ได้ภาพที่ดีขึ้น

ควรสื่อสารกับตัวแบบให้ชัดเจน (Clear communication)
         การถ่ายภาพ Portrait นั้นเราไม่ได้ทำงานคนเดียวเหมือนกับการถ่ายภาพประเภทอื่น ๆ การถ่ายภาพบุคคลเป็นการทำงานร่วมกันระหว่างผู้ถ่าย กับตัวนายหรือนางแบบ ซึ่งต้องมีการสื่อสารพูดคุยกันว่าจะถ่ายทอดอารมณ์ และท่าทางแบบไหน ศิลปะในการสื่อสารจึงเป็นสิ่งสำคัญ อย่าทำให้ตัวแบบของเราเกิดความเครียดอย่างเด็ดขาด เพราะว่าจะทำให้ไม่สามารถถ่ายทอดอารมณ์ที่เป็นธรรมชาติออกมาได้ พยายามบอกเล่าและสื่อสารกันให้เข้าใจว่าท่านต้องการอารมณ์ และท่าทางแบบไหน เมื่อสามารถสื่อสารได้ตรงตามความต้องการ หรือ Concept ของภาพแล้ว เมื่อนั้นคุณก็จะได้อารมณ์ของภาพแบบที่คุณต้องการ

ปล่อยให้เขาเป็นในแบบที่เขาเป็น (Let him be himself)
          ในการถ่ายภาพบุคคลบางอย่างเช่น ภาพวิถีชีวิต สารคดี หรือประเภทอื่น ๆ ก็ตาม บางครั้งเราต้องการถ่ายภาพเพื่อสื่อความเป็นตัวตนของคน ๆ นั้นออกมา มากกว่าการที่จะให้คน ๆ นั้นทำตาม Concept ที่เราวางเอาไว้ ซึ่งภาพแนวนี้เราต้องมองให้เห็นและดึงความเป็นตัวตนของเขาออกมา โดยปล่อยให้เขาเป็นในแบบที่เขาเป็น ซึ่งสำหรับภาพแนววิถีชีวิต หรือแนวสารคดีนั้น การเดินเข้าไปถ่ายตรง ๆ และดูค่อนข้างจะเสียมารยาท และทำให้เกิดความเข้าใจผิดได้ จริงอยู่การที่คนมีกล้องมีสิทธิ์ที่จะถ่ายภาพนั้น แต่คนที่จะถูกถ่ายก็มีสิทธิ์ที่จะไม่ให้ถ่ายได้พอ ๆ กัน เราจึงควรที่จะเข้าไปพบปะพูดคุยกันเสียก่อน เพื่อแสดงความเป็นมิตรกับผู้ที่เราจะถ่ายภาพเขา และถ้าหากว่าเราผูกมิตรกับเขาได้โอกาสที่จะได้ภาพสวย ๆ นั้นมีความเป็นไปได้สูง บางครั้งเราอาจจะต้องคุยไป ถ่ายไป คอยจับกริยาท่าทางของเขา และแน่นอนในหลาย ๆ ครั้งที่เราต้องรอจับจังหวะถ่ายเอาเอง เพราะการที่จะบอกให้เขาทำท่าตามที่เราต้องการนั้น บางครั้งจะทำให้ตัวแบบเกิดอาการเกร็งได้

การควบคุมแสง (Window light)
         เทคนิคสำคัญอย่างหนึ่งของการถ่ายภาพบุคคล คือการควบคุมทิศทางแสง การที่จะได้ภาพที่ให้ความรู้สึกที่แตกต่าง ในสถานการณ์ต่าง ๆ นั้น การจัดสภาพแสงที่แตกต่างกันไปสามารถสร้างอารมณ์ของภาพได้ดี ซึ่งเราต้องหาให้เจอว่าจะใช้งานแต่ละสภาพแสงนั้น ๆ อย่างไร เทคนิคหนึ่งที่สามารถใช้งานได้ดี คือการจัดให้สภาพแสงที่เข้ามามีเพียงด้านเดียว หรือจะเรียกว่า Window light เทคนิคนี้ใช้งานได้ไม่ยาก แต่สามารถที่จะสร้างความแตกต่างในภาพได้ดี การหาสถานที่ ๆ มีสภาพแสงเข้ามาด้านเดียว เช่นด้านข้างหน้าต่าง ประตู หรือว่าช่องกำแพงต่าง ๆ ขอให้เป็นสถานที่ ๆ สามารถบีบให้แสงเข้ามาจากด้านเดียวได้ แล้วจัดสภาพแสงให้เข้ามากระทบด้านข้างของตัวแบบ เท่านี้เราก็จะได้ภาพที่มีความแตกต่างจากปกติ มีลักษณะที่แปลกตา และน่าค้นหามากยิ่งขึ้น

ถ่ายภาพย้อนแสง (Shooting against the light)
         การถ่ายภาพย้อนแสงนั้นอาจจะทำให้ได้ภาพตัวแบบที่หน้าดำ และเป็นภาพที่ไม่ดี แต่ในความเป็นจริงแล้วการถ่ายภาพบุคคลโดยย้อนแสงนั้น มีสิ่งที่สวยงามซ่อนอยู่ เช่นประกายสะท้อนแสงของเส้นผม ซึ่งสิ่งที่เราต้องการเอง คือการทำอย่างไรไม่ให้ตัวแบบเรานั้นหน้าดำ ซึ่งเทคนิค และวิธีแก้นั้นมีอยู่ 3 วิธีด้วยกัน คือ

  1. ใช้การวัดแสงแบบเฉพาะจุด โดยเลือกวัดแสงที่บริเวณแก้มของตัวแบบ
  2. ใช้แสง flash ช่วยเติมแสงบริเวณใบหน้า
  3. ใช้ Reflex สะท้อน และเติมแสงบริเวณใบหน้า วิธีนี้จะให้แสงที่นุ่ม และมีมิติมากกว่าการใช้ flash

         เทคนิค และวิธีการเหล่านี้สามารถที่จะนำไปปรับใช้กับสถานการณ์ต่าง ๆ ได้อย่างง่ายดาย

การถ่ายภาพบุคคลร่วมกับทิวทัศน์ (How to the portraits with landscapes.)
         หลาย ๆ ครั้งที่เราต้องถ่ายภาพบุคคลร่วมกับฉากหลัง และจำเป็นที่จะต้องให้ความสำคัญกับทั้งสองอย่าง เช่น การไปถ่ายภาพสถานที่ท่องเที่ยวต่าง ๆ หรือสถานที่สำคัญ ๆ  โดยทั่วไปแล้วเรามักจะวางตัวแบบไว้ตรงกลางภาพ ซึ่งในหลาย ๆ ครั้งตัวแบบของเราก็จะไปบดบังทิวทัศน์เบื้องหลัง ซึ่งในความเป็นจริงแล้วเราอาจจะใช้วิธีง่าย ๆ ที่สามารถทำให้ทั้งสองสิ่งอยู่ร่วมกันได้ และมีความสำคัญที่เท่ากัน การวางบุคคลไว้ทางด้านซ้าย หรือทางด้านขวาของภาพ ตามกฎของจุดตัด 9 ช่อง ก็สามารถที่จะเก็บภาพของทิวทัศน์เบื้องหลัง และภาพของตัวแบบเอาไว้ด้วยกันได้โดยไม่มีปัญหาใด ๆ แต่ถ้าหากว่าเราต้องการถ่ายภาพร่วมกับตึก หรือวัตถุที่มีลักษณะเป็นทรงตั้งสูง ๆ ให้เราจัดองค์ประกอบภาพเหมือนกับว่าเราจะถ่ายภาพคู่ โดยให้จินตนาการว่าสถานที่นั้น ๆ หรือตึกหลังนั้นเป็นบุคคลอีกคนหนึ่ง
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